Educating a Star
Contributor: Ruth Kellogg, AMCC Member
From the March/April 2009 Malamute Review
During our long conversations before and after the writing of “Malamutes are not Goldens,” my friend Daphne pointed out to me that “novice owners” and trainers could possibly benefit from more precise guidelines in educating their new pups. I spoke about not drilling exercises and providing a lot of variety in training sessions in the aforementioned article. Experienced trainers understand these concepts immediately; but what about the new Mal owner? She mentioned that such a guideline would have been extremely useful when she got her first Malamute. Fortunately over the twenty years since she got her first Mal and attended my first classes for my clients, I have increased my own knowledge and have educated more pups. My methods for educating my own pups has changed significantly since then with subsequent noticeable differences in the level of my dogs’ abilities at even younger ages than before. So, with lot of gratitude to Daphne, I shall suggest a program of Malamute education for anyone to follow.
Before deciding upon and then implementing an educational program for the new pup, there are some guidelines for the new trainer that must be understood and followed.
1. What will the owner and pup do in the future?
Let me be very clear, you must have a good idea of what you want to do with your dog in the future. Conformation showing? Obedience competitions of some kind? Agility? Harness work? Hiking? Tracking? Trick Training? Pet Therapy work? Anything? If you are not sure where your interests with your dog will take you – and more importantly what activity the pup will be most suited for or enjoy – then educate your pup from the beginning to be able to do any possible future activity. It doesn't mean that you will participate in a particular activity, but the foundations for doing different activities will be laid. For instance, teaching the foundations of agility work can lead to just having fun in the woods with the dog walking along logs or jumping over logs on cue instead of going into agility trials.
2. What equipment will be needed?
I do not believe in using a lot of gimmicks when educating my dogs. They are lazy crutches at worst which the innately intelligent and independent thinking Malamute will not respond to in the same way as other breeds. For instance, the wires used for teaching the dog to go through the weave poles are not as successful as teaching the Malamute how to enter and move his body through the poles one pole at a time. The equipment I routinely use is a lead (to only keep the dog in my vicinity), a clicker, treats, and a target stick. My aim is to teach the Malamute what I want. To do that, I must reach the dog’s mind.
As the Malamute’s education progresses, I may add a small plastic disc or lid (for teaching going to a mark), cones (for Rally-O work), jumps, tunnel, weave poles, my agility cross-over, harnesses, and any of a bicycle, scooter, sled, and/or wagon for harness work. But, I’ll emphasize, the vast majority of my education is done with a clicker and target stick.
As a general rule, when my dogs are baby puppies, they wear a puppy collar. Once they are around 4 months of age, they are wearing a sled dog collar when they need a collar. I only use a slip/choke collar for conformation work when the dog is getting polished for the show ring. Before then, the dog/pup is taught what is expected with a sled dog collar on. When I’m starting to do formalized sessions for obedience (competitive or Rally), the Mal is outfitted with a buckle collar. By waiting until the dog is older and is getting either more formalized education or is being readied for their debut in the show or obedience ring and then introducing the collar they will be wearing during those competitive events, they are able to quickly understand the difference of activities and subsequent behaviors that will be expected when they wear the appropriate collar. Before then, the youngster is still learning basic foundation work which is served nicely by their wearing their “every day” sled dog collar.
But by far, the most important piece of “equipment” that I use is my mind connecting with the Malamute’s mind. Teaching the Malamute what is desired requires that the handler thinks, plans, evaluates, and adjusts the teachings as required by the individual dog. Every dog is an individual and while a handler may be used to teaching an exercise in one fashion – that may have worked beautifully for a few dogs – it may not work for every one. If the Alaskan Malamute is taught well, he will understand what is expected. Remember, this is a breed that is always asking “Why?” Teach well, and the question will be answered.
3. Foundation Building
My training plans are based upon establishing a solid foundation of basic behaviors. As the pup learns these foundations, then they are built up from there. As an example: before a pup can execute a correct “front” (sitting directly in front of the handler), the pup must know the sit command. I do not rush the training as taking time to teach the pup in such a way that he understands what is asked actually takes less time in the long run as the need for fixing “mistakes” is eliminated. Some pups understand new lessons very quickly; others take longer – there are no time restrictions on teaching properly.
4. Length of Training Sessions
Another rule for this program is that the training sessions are not long. Fifteen minutes can certainly be long enough if the lesson is creatively put together with a variety of activities that are changed quickly. This, too, will vary from dog to dog. Some dogs do everything well when asked. If only five or ten minutes are spent – great. End the session and do something else with the dog. Remember, Malamutes need lots of variety and really respond beautifully to fast paced lessons.
5. Confusion of the Malamute
If the dog is not “getting” the lesson, is tuning you out, displays boredom, and/or shows confusion (e.g. “talking” can be a sign with some Mals), then stop that particular task, do something easy and ideally fun that the dog knows and enjoys – and quit the session. Then, it is your job to think and re-think the session and figure out what you were or were not doing to cause the confusion. Think of another approach and try again the next day. It is the teacher’s responsibility to teach the lesson in a way that the student can understand.
6. Repetitions and “Drilling” exercises
“Drilling exercises” with Malamutes does NOT work. What this means is that a handler works over and over on one exercise (e.g. getting a straight front). Malamutes are not automatons and they will question “Why” and if the supposed answer they get from the trainer is “Because I say so”, the Mal will definitely turn off. This could be disastrous as the Malamute may lose any enjoyment or desire to learn anything else ever again. If a trainer is working on one aspect of an exercise (e.g. straight front), and it’s not perfect, then the thinking trainer understands that by not making a big deal of the poor fronts at that training session is not worth it. The exercise, in succeeding lessons will be slowly shaped to the desired position by rewarding slightly straighter fronts than previously offered. Yes, this takes time, but only asking for a straight front a few times (maximum six times/training sessions) will keep the exercise fresh and not bore the Mal to tears causing him to mentally turn off completely.
7. Working Attitudes of both Malamute and Handler
The handler should keep the exercises fun! Working with a Mal is fun and it should be for both dog and handler. An enthusiastic dog who truly enjoys learning will actually learn faster and retain the lessons exceedingly well. It is rewarding for both when that happens. Don’t squelch the enthusiastic pup. If the pup is bouncy and extremely excited at the start of the session, do an exercise that’ll physically slow him down at first. This will settle his mind at the same time and enable him to focus, concentrate, and learn. Believe me, a youngster who clearly says “PICK ME!” when there is a possibility of training is what you want to aim for!
There are times when we don’t want to learn and/or aren't feeling well physically, mentally, or emotionally. Our dogs are no different. Struggling to get a dog enthused about working when he clearly isn't interested is a waste of time and energy. Even after a couple of minutes – literally – if you get the message that the dog isn't interested, quit. If the dog has no physical problems and it is a mental reason that you are deducing why he isn't interested in working, then put the dog in a run or even a crate for a while by himself. The idea behind this is to get the message to the dog that teaching sessions with you are a valued and special time. Do this once or twice and see if your dog’s attitude changes from “Oh darn” to “Yeah! We’re going to have some fun!”
8. Communication
I cannot stress enough the huge importance to learn about canine communication and then apply your own knowledge of it with observation of your own dog. As said in “Malamutes are not Goldens”, the non-verbal language of dogs is very rich. Malamutes are extremely communicative verbally and non-verbally. They communicate their emotions loudly if you tune in.
9. Variety in the Lessons
Alaskan Malamutes respond beautiful to variety and quick changes of activities. If the changes are done quickly and with the trainer’s attitude of fun, then the Mal views the changes as a wonderful game. When you are teaching a brand new activity (e.g. go to a mark), do maybe three of this exercise, then a “lighter” activity that the Mal loves (such as a few circles & spins), and then return to the new exercise for another three tries. This helps to keep the dog’s motivation and enjoyment high. In addition, the dog is rewarded for the previous activity’s work (which is more strenuous as he is learning something new) by doing something he really enjoys. This applies to all ages of Mals from baby pups on through to working with veterans.
It is quite possible to do three or more quick tasks within five minutes with the Malamute. They do not get confused and become quite enthusiastic to do such fun games. Malamutes are very spontaneous in their play; be creative and spontaneous in the training sessions and it will become a wonderful and fun “play” for both.
10. Ending the session
No matter how the training session went, it is imperative to end on a positive note with an activity that the dog knows well. If there is any frustration building in the training session for either the dog or person, do a quick positive activity (even just ask for a sit), then quit. It doesn't matter how long you were working. Quit when you are ahead.
From the March/April 2009 Malamute Review
During our long conversations before and after the writing of “Malamutes are not Goldens,” my friend Daphne pointed out to me that “novice owners” and trainers could possibly benefit from more precise guidelines in educating their new pups. I spoke about not drilling exercises and providing a lot of variety in training sessions in the aforementioned article. Experienced trainers understand these concepts immediately; but what about the new Mal owner? She mentioned that such a guideline would have been extremely useful when she got her first Malamute. Fortunately over the twenty years since she got her first Mal and attended my first classes for my clients, I have increased my own knowledge and have educated more pups. My methods for educating my own pups has changed significantly since then with subsequent noticeable differences in the level of my dogs’ abilities at even younger ages than before. So, with lot of gratitude to Daphne, I shall suggest a program of Malamute education for anyone to follow.
Before deciding upon and then implementing an educational program for the new pup, there are some guidelines for the new trainer that must be understood and followed.
1. What will the owner and pup do in the future?
Let me be very clear, you must have a good idea of what you want to do with your dog in the future. Conformation showing? Obedience competitions of some kind? Agility? Harness work? Hiking? Tracking? Trick Training? Pet Therapy work? Anything? If you are not sure where your interests with your dog will take you – and more importantly what activity the pup will be most suited for or enjoy – then educate your pup from the beginning to be able to do any possible future activity. It doesn't mean that you will participate in a particular activity, but the foundations for doing different activities will be laid. For instance, teaching the foundations of agility work can lead to just having fun in the woods with the dog walking along logs or jumping over logs on cue instead of going into agility trials.
2. What equipment will be needed?
I do not believe in using a lot of gimmicks when educating my dogs. They are lazy crutches at worst which the innately intelligent and independent thinking Malamute will not respond to in the same way as other breeds. For instance, the wires used for teaching the dog to go through the weave poles are not as successful as teaching the Malamute how to enter and move his body through the poles one pole at a time. The equipment I routinely use is a lead (to only keep the dog in my vicinity), a clicker, treats, and a target stick. My aim is to teach the Malamute what I want. To do that, I must reach the dog’s mind.
As the Malamute’s education progresses, I may add a small plastic disc or lid (for teaching going to a mark), cones (for Rally-O work), jumps, tunnel, weave poles, my agility cross-over, harnesses, and any of a bicycle, scooter, sled, and/or wagon for harness work. But, I’ll emphasize, the vast majority of my education is done with a clicker and target stick.
As a general rule, when my dogs are baby puppies, they wear a puppy collar. Once they are around 4 months of age, they are wearing a sled dog collar when they need a collar. I only use a slip/choke collar for conformation work when the dog is getting polished for the show ring. Before then, the dog/pup is taught what is expected with a sled dog collar on. When I’m starting to do formalized sessions for obedience (competitive or Rally), the Mal is outfitted with a buckle collar. By waiting until the dog is older and is getting either more formalized education or is being readied for their debut in the show or obedience ring and then introducing the collar they will be wearing during those competitive events, they are able to quickly understand the difference of activities and subsequent behaviors that will be expected when they wear the appropriate collar. Before then, the youngster is still learning basic foundation work which is served nicely by their wearing their “every day” sled dog collar.
But by far, the most important piece of “equipment” that I use is my mind connecting with the Malamute’s mind. Teaching the Malamute what is desired requires that the handler thinks, plans, evaluates, and adjusts the teachings as required by the individual dog. Every dog is an individual and while a handler may be used to teaching an exercise in one fashion – that may have worked beautifully for a few dogs – it may not work for every one. If the Alaskan Malamute is taught well, he will understand what is expected. Remember, this is a breed that is always asking “Why?” Teach well, and the question will be answered.
3. Foundation Building
My training plans are based upon establishing a solid foundation of basic behaviors. As the pup learns these foundations, then they are built up from there. As an example: before a pup can execute a correct “front” (sitting directly in front of the handler), the pup must know the sit command. I do not rush the training as taking time to teach the pup in such a way that he understands what is asked actually takes less time in the long run as the need for fixing “mistakes” is eliminated. Some pups understand new lessons very quickly; others take longer – there are no time restrictions on teaching properly.
4. Length of Training Sessions
Another rule for this program is that the training sessions are not long. Fifteen minutes can certainly be long enough if the lesson is creatively put together with a variety of activities that are changed quickly. This, too, will vary from dog to dog. Some dogs do everything well when asked. If only five or ten minutes are spent – great. End the session and do something else with the dog. Remember, Malamutes need lots of variety and really respond beautifully to fast paced lessons.
5. Confusion of the Malamute
If the dog is not “getting” the lesson, is tuning you out, displays boredom, and/or shows confusion (e.g. “talking” can be a sign with some Mals), then stop that particular task, do something easy and ideally fun that the dog knows and enjoys – and quit the session. Then, it is your job to think and re-think the session and figure out what you were or were not doing to cause the confusion. Think of another approach and try again the next day. It is the teacher’s responsibility to teach the lesson in a way that the student can understand.
6. Repetitions and “Drilling” exercises
“Drilling exercises” with Malamutes does NOT work. What this means is that a handler works over and over on one exercise (e.g. getting a straight front). Malamutes are not automatons and they will question “Why” and if the supposed answer they get from the trainer is “Because I say so”, the Mal will definitely turn off. This could be disastrous as the Malamute may lose any enjoyment or desire to learn anything else ever again. If a trainer is working on one aspect of an exercise (e.g. straight front), and it’s not perfect, then the thinking trainer understands that by not making a big deal of the poor fronts at that training session is not worth it. The exercise, in succeeding lessons will be slowly shaped to the desired position by rewarding slightly straighter fronts than previously offered. Yes, this takes time, but only asking for a straight front a few times (maximum six times/training sessions) will keep the exercise fresh and not bore the Mal to tears causing him to mentally turn off completely.
7. Working Attitudes of both Malamute and Handler
The handler should keep the exercises fun! Working with a Mal is fun and it should be for both dog and handler. An enthusiastic dog who truly enjoys learning will actually learn faster and retain the lessons exceedingly well. It is rewarding for both when that happens. Don’t squelch the enthusiastic pup. If the pup is bouncy and extremely excited at the start of the session, do an exercise that’ll physically slow him down at first. This will settle his mind at the same time and enable him to focus, concentrate, and learn. Believe me, a youngster who clearly says “PICK ME!” when there is a possibility of training is what you want to aim for!
There are times when we don’t want to learn and/or aren't feeling well physically, mentally, or emotionally. Our dogs are no different. Struggling to get a dog enthused about working when he clearly isn't interested is a waste of time and energy. Even after a couple of minutes – literally – if you get the message that the dog isn't interested, quit. If the dog has no physical problems and it is a mental reason that you are deducing why he isn't interested in working, then put the dog in a run or even a crate for a while by himself. The idea behind this is to get the message to the dog that teaching sessions with you are a valued and special time. Do this once or twice and see if your dog’s attitude changes from “Oh darn” to “Yeah! We’re going to have some fun!”
8. Communication
I cannot stress enough the huge importance to learn about canine communication and then apply your own knowledge of it with observation of your own dog. As said in “Malamutes are not Goldens”, the non-verbal language of dogs is very rich. Malamutes are extremely communicative verbally and non-verbally. They communicate their emotions loudly if you tune in.
9. Variety in the Lessons
Alaskan Malamutes respond beautiful to variety and quick changes of activities. If the changes are done quickly and with the trainer’s attitude of fun, then the Mal views the changes as a wonderful game. When you are teaching a brand new activity (e.g. go to a mark), do maybe three of this exercise, then a “lighter” activity that the Mal loves (such as a few circles & spins), and then return to the new exercise for another three tries. This helps to keep the dog’s motivation and enjoyment high. In addition, the dog is rewarded for the previous activity’s work (which is more strenuous as he is learning something new) by doing something he really enjoys. This applies to all ages of Mals from baby pups on through to working with veterans.
It is quite possible to do three or more quick tasks within five minutes with the Malamute. They do not get confused and become quite enthusiastic to do such fun games. Malamutes are very spontaneous in their play; be creative and spontaneous in the training sessions and it will become a wonderful and fun “play” for both.
10. Ending the session
No matter how the training session went, it is imperative to end on a positive note with an activity that the dog knows well. If there is any frustration building in the training session for either the dog or person, do a quick positive activity (even just ask for a sit), then quit. It doesn't matter how long you were working. Quit when you are ahead.
What to Teach
As said earlier, when we get our pup we either have a good idea what we want to do with the pup in the future or if not, we can plan to educate the pup so that our options for doing anything is there. For the rest of this article, we will follow a new (and hypothetical) pup that I’ll call “Star.”
I’m not sure what Star’s future talents will be as an adult, so I’ll plan his education so he will have the foundations to do conformation work, competitive obedience, Rally obedience, harness work, draft work, agility, tricks, musical k9 freestyle, visiting as a therapy dog, and of course, be a well loved companion who has great house manners. Seems like a lot, doesn't it? All of this is certainly possible and end up with a Malamute who is excited and willing to do anything that is asked with a wonderful happy attitude.
I use the principles of laying a strong foundation of basic behaviors and cross-training. I define cross-training as teaching behaviors (with their corresponding cues) that can be easily transferred from one activity to another. Now, let’s look at that ambitious list of activities to enjoy with Star and see what behaviors (or the foundations of behaviors) are needed for each one.
Companion & House manners: understanding of place in family/pack, house-trained (eliminate on command), walk on a lead, heel (on lead), come when called, bang, tummy side up, watch/focus, leave it, “off”, give/take, wait, sit/stay, down/stay, “go”, “All right/o.k.”, paw, give/take, standing still when stranger examines
Conformation: move freely on a loose lead, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, move back/forward, watch/focus, “go” command
Competitive Obedience: heel (on and off lead), sit, down, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, come when called, “front”, return to heel (swing or around finish), watch/focus, sit/stay, down/stay, down when moving, retrieve, jump, give/take, go out, moving stand
Rally Obedience: heel (on and off lead), sit, down, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, come when called, “front”, return to heel (both swing and around finishes), watch/focus, sit/stay, down/stay, down when moving, moving stand, back, jump, tunnel, weave poles
Agility: watch/focus, “go”, jump, stay, wait, “easy”, right and left directions, “on-by,” tunnel, weave poles, see-saw, A-frame, dog walk, cross-over, pause table
Harness work: stand, “go”, stop, right and left directions, “easy”, “on by” stay, “paw”
Draft work: watch/focus, heel (off lead), stand/stay, stand, “go”, stop, right and left directions, “easy”, “on by” stay, “paw”
Tricks: watch/focus, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, go/come to marks, crawl (and more….)
Musical K9 Freestyle: watch/focus, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, go/come to marks, crawl, heel (on and off lead), wait, sit/stay, down/stay, stand, focus, weave (through legs), jump, crawl (and more…)
Pet Therapy: understanding of place in family/pack, house-trained (eliminate on command), walk on a lead, heel (on lead), come when called, bang/tummy side up, watch/focus, leave it, “off”, give/take, wait, sit/stay, down/stay, “go”, “All right/o.k.”, paw, give/take, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, retrieve, and more tricks
If one really looks at the behaviors in the different areas and note how many similar ones are in seemingly different activities, the task of teaching the various activities is much less daunting.
I’m not sure what Star’s future talents will be as an adult, so I’ll plan his education so he will have the foundations to do conformation work, competitive obedience, Rally obedience, harness work, draft work, agility, tricks, musical k9 freestyle, visiting as a therapy dog, and of course, be a well loved companion who has great house manners. Seems like a lot, doesn't it? All of this is certainly possible and end up with a Malamute who is excited and willing to do anything that is asked with a wonderful happy attitude.
I use the principles of laying a strong foundation of basic behaviors and cross-training. I define cross-training as teaching behaviors (with their corresponding cues) that can be easily transferred from one activity to another. Now, let’s look at that ambitious list of activities to enjoy with Star and see what behaviors (or the foundations of behaviors) are needed for each one.
Companion & House manners: understanding of place in family/pack, house-trained (eliminate on command), walk on a lead, heel (on lead), come when called, bang, tummy side up, watch/focus, leave it, “off”, give/take, wait, sit/stay, down/stay, “go”, “All right/o.k.”, paw, give/take, standing still when stranger examines
Conformation: move freely on a loose lead, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, move back/forward, watch/focus, “go” command
Competitive Obedience: heel (on and off lead), sit, down, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, come when called, “front”, return to heel (swing or around finish), watch/focus, sit/stay, down/stay, down when moving, retrieve, jump, give/take, go out, moving stand
Rally Obedience: heel (on and off lead), sit, down, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, come when called, “front”, return to heel (both swing and around finishes), watch/focus, sit/stay, down/stay, down when moving, moving stand, back, jump, tunnel, weave poles
Agility: watch/focus, “go”, jump, stay, wait, “easy”, right and left directions, “on-by,” tunnel, weave poles, see-saw, A-frame, dog walk, cross-over, pause table
Harness work: stand, “go”, stop, right and left directions, “easy”, “on by” stay, “paw”
Draft work: watch/focus, heel (off lead), stand/stay, stand, “go”, stop, right and left directions, “easy”, “on by” stay, “paw”
Tricks: watch/focus, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, go/come to marks, crawl (and more….)
Musical K9 Freestyle: watch/focus, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, go/come to marks, crawl, heel (on and off lead), wait, sit/stay, down/stay, stand, focus, weave (through legs), jump, crawl (and more…)
Pet Therapy: understanding of place in family/pack, house-trained (eliminate on command), walk on a lead, heel (on lead), come when called, bang/tummy side up, watch/focus, leave it, “off”, give/take, wait, sit/stay, down/stay, “go”, “All right/o.k.”, paw, give/take, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, retrieve, and more tricks
If one really looks at the behaviors in the different areas and note how many similar ones are in seemingly different activities, the task of teaching the various activities is much less daunting.