Laying the Foundation
Contributor: Ruth Kellog, AMCC Member
From the March/April 2009 Malamute Review
The schedule that I’ll suggest for Star is actually what I do with all my pups now. Some are able to progress very quickly. Others may take a little longer at different steps. Again, I can’t stress enough that every dog is an individual. Even in a litter, there are definitive differences between siblings. What I’m suggesting is just that – suggestions. I have gone through my notes and recollections of how my dogs have progressed in their puppy education and this schedule is quite representative.
Eight to Twelve Weeks
Pups are usually joining their new packs at this time. While the temptation may be to “let the pup be a pup,” that actually is a mistake as it is far better to start the pup’s education as soon as he joins his new family. Before he joins the family, clear house rules must be thought through and agreed upon by all family members. These house rules will be what you want the adult dog to behave like…….so, teach the pup those particular rules from the beginning. For instance, if you do not want the dog to jump up on people, then don’t allow the baby puppy to do so. It’s not worth risking confusion and having to do remedial education by allowing the pup to do one behavior and then “suddenly” changing the rules on him. Any pup that joins my pack is under strict control and supervision. This actually aids in house training and gently and positively teaches the rules of acceptable behavior in my home. Pups must earn the privilege to have more freedom of movement etc. As they mature and show me their understanding of my expectations, they earn privileges.
During this time, the pup will be learning his name, walking on a leash, crate training, home routines, and house training. That in itself is a big lot of learning for the baby puppy. But, fortunately, the pup’s brain and central nervous system is fully developed and he can handle all of this – and more. The following are things that the pup will learn at this age.
1. Learning his name: I use the pup’s name a lot – especially when he’s getting special cuddles. Pairing it with food doesn’t hurt either! His name should be a wonderful thing – so use it with gentle and loving tones in your voice.
2. Learning negative sounds: I teach my clients and puppy class students to save the “no’s” and “bad” words for when it is really needed. That keeps the words more powerful. For corrections and/or minor infractions, I use negative sounds such as “Ah” or “Ow”. Doesn’t matter what the heritage of the pup is, they all understand those sounds.
3. Learning positive sounds: Conversely, the pup should also learn positive sounds. Again, don’t overuse the “good dog” words; “yes” can be substituted at times. Do have special words for when the pup is especially good (e.g. “Excellent!”) If a pup takes longer to respond to a command – and finally does it; don’t use “good dog” – use “thank-you” instead. If the pup had responded quickly – then it merits a “good dog”. By using “thank-you” it acknowledges positively that the pup did what was asked.
4. Walking on a leash: Put the leash on and use it. I do not like to have the pup drag a leash around as I can’t see the point of it. I want my pups to learn that when the leash is on, they are connected to me physically and hopefully mentally. Pups at this age won’t fight the leash much at all – but postpone your leash training, and you’ll have a big fight on your hands. If you are using the leash as part of the house-training routine (having the pup eliminate on a leash outside, tethering the pup to a solid object or yourself), this will just be part of the pup’s life.
5. Crate training: I feed my dogs in crates and the young ones sleep in their crates (in my bedroom). This is just part of the routine. I go into this in more depth in the article “Dog Crates and New Owners.”
6. Vocabulary: In addition to the pup’s name, positive and negative sounds, our hypothetical pup, Star, will also be learning inside/outside, dinner, cookies, cues for eliminations, and other words that I may use routinely. In the beginning, a pup will learn what we are trying to communicate by watching our non-verbal communication. If clear and consistent verbal cues are paired with activities (e.g. saying ‘outside’ before taking the pup outside to eliminate), then the pup will start to associate the funny sounds we make with activities. Just as a young child learns the words by hearing them over and over, the pup also learns this way.
7. Tummy-Side Up: This is an extremely important lesson for Star to learn. There will be many times throughout Star’s life when he will be held and/or restrained. He must learn to accept all parts of his body being held and handled by humans – even strangers such as veterinarians. He learns that being held and restrained is not to be feared – in fact, it can be quite pleasant! While being held, he is massaged all over (when he relaxes). Star also learns that his person is safe and trustworthy – a start on his person becoming a leader in his eyes. (Star’s owner must become a “Benevolent Leader.”)
8. Loading the clicker: As I train my dogs with clickers, I “load” the clicker early. If Star is a pup that I’ve bred, he’ll have heard the clicker sounding right before his dinner magically appears for the first couple of weeks. Then when our more “formal” lessons start, he already knows that the funny sound = treats. If Star is a pup that I've purchased, then by clicking the clicker (ideally when he’s looking at me) and then giving a treat immediately, Star will quickly get the idea that the funny sound = a treat.
9. Puppy Push Ups: This is a term that Ian Dunbar DVM uses to describe the exercises of sit/down/stand that he teaches with lure training. I also teach and use the luring method when doing this as it works so well for any pup. When Star’s head is up, his butt will hit the ground (a sit). From a sit, when the treat is moved along the ground, he’ll want to follow it and will slide into a down. Again, from a sit, if the treat is moved directly away from his nose parallel to the ground, he’ll stand. I use the clicker to mark his changing positions (in the beginning) and when he is following the lure well, the clicker will mark the end of the behavior – or completion of the sit, down, or stand. In the beginning, pups are following the lure (and his nose). There is no point in getting stressed about using the verbal cues until he follows the non-verbal cues easily. A big mistake I see novice handlers make is using the verbal cues too soon – and then they end up sounding like a machine gun (e.g. sit sit sit sit sit) trying to get their pup to follow the verbal cue when the pup has no idea what the heck they are meaning. Not only is this a waste of breath, it degrades the verbal cue right from the beginning. New handlers also have a lot of problem in giving a cue (non-verbal or verbal) and then waiting for the pup to process what the heck the cue means before doing it. I’ll add the cue words in after he is following his nose easily into the three different positions. I will give the verbal cue along with the non-verbal cue and then fade out the non-verbal cues as the pup shows me that he understands it. The clicker marks the behavior and reinforces to the pup that he made the right choice in his behavior.
10. Come when called: At this young age, Star is called and lured to people in a gentle manner. Having a lead on will certainly help bring him in closer. If I’ve bred Star, he’ll have learned “puppy puppy puppy” means come to me as well. If the pup is in a big yard and I don’t think he’ll come when I call; he’ll either not be called directly or kept on a long light rope so that I can reinforce the come. Teaching a pup to not come when called is too easy. I admit, that I've have done this with one of my girls. This party girl has given me many more grey hairs when, after escaping from the yard, she has run across and along our very busy road as logging trucks speed by. Even at eight years of age, if I’m not sure that Zhouma will come to me in the yard or I need her to go directly to her kennel run, she is on a lead.
11. Leave It: This is another life-saving command that must be taught. An 8 week old puppy can certainly learn this easily – particularly with the clicker. Refer to the article “Leave It” for how I teach it.
This is certainly quite a list for a baby pup to learn. But do keep in mind that the vast majority of the list will be happening during the entire day. A couple of “formal” sessions of doing puppy push-ups, come when called, and a leave it or two during a day will be enough for the baby. But keep in mind; these teaching sessions are only about 10 minutes in duration – if that. Tummy-side ups can happen at any time during the day – such as watching TV with the pup. They should be done a minimum of twice a day – more is certainly better.
Thirteen to Sixteen weeks
This is another very important time as socialization outside of the home area must really be intensified. You cannot over-socialize a pup. After the second vaccination, the pup should get to some well run puppy classes. Seeing other pups of varying sizes and shapes and different people is fabulous experience for the pup. If the classes are run by trainers who don’t understand northern dogs, I encourage my clients to take the article “Malamutes are not Goldens” with them to give to the teacher. Some puppy classes may focus on doing simple exercises over and over and over. That will bore the Mal pup – especially if he already knows them! We must be our dog’s advocate – and if we don’t think that doing something the instructor is asking the class to do is right for our dog, then don’t do it. For instance, when I take my pup to the classes, he is already far ahead of the other participants in their knowledge of behaviors. So, I’ll mix up the behaviors by throwing in some tricks that the pup knows or possibly having the pup move around me using the lure method.
So what can Star add to his knowledge at this age?
1. Focus/ Watch Me: If you don’t have the dog’s attention, he won’t listen or learn from you. I point to my eye and when the pup gives me any eye contact, I click and treat. The length of time that the pup will focus is slowly increased. If I have an enthusiastic “dinner-diving” pup, then he is taught to wait for the dinner bowl to be placed on the ground and then must give me direct eye contact before he gets his release cue – and his dinner.
2. Circles /Spins: These tricks are easily taught by the pup following his nose. This is an excellent warm up exercise that helps to limber the dog’s back and muscles. For more information on this, refer to my article “Circles.”
3. Paw: Malamutes are very paw-orientated. This is a handy command to have – not only for the trick value – but in more practical things such as grooming, harnessing, saying “no paw” when the dog is pawing inappropriately, and teaching “paws up” when getting the pup on the grooming table. Refer to my article “Paw” on how I teach this and what can be taught from this foundation.
4. Back: This is so useful in many different activities; look at the list of behaviors and see how many times it shows up! Pups learn this easily. Dogs are not generally aware of their back ends. The rear just provides their motor. Teaching a pup to be aware of his rear in this exercise is particularly useful in conformation showing (getting the “rear set up”) and in Rally-O with the many turns in either direction. Again, refer to my article “Back” for more information on how I teach this.
5. Bow: This is a delightful trick – but one that is also an excellent warm up/stretching exercise for dogs. It is much easier to teach this to a small pup than it is to a large dog which is why I teach it early. Pups understand what is wanted very quickly when they are young. How I teach “Bow” is also on my website.
6. Bang: Teaching a pup to lie on his side is very useful during grooming or other times when he must lie still. It’s also wonderful for cuddle times. Bang is the foundation for teaching the pup to roll over on command. Refer to my article “Bang” for how I teach this.
7. “Show Dog”: As Star will be shown and free-stacked when shown; I introduce the cue “show dog” so that he learns to stand directly in front of me in the manner that I want. By using the verbal cue “show dog,” it enables me to throw some conformation work in the middle of obedience or trick training without my pup becoming confused. When I’m at home, I do the majority of my dog training without using leads. While “show dog” is started in a formal lesson, I continue it as a daily basis when Star gets his cookies after meals, at bedtime, and other times treats are given out to the pack. With clicker training, the exact stance etc. is shaped. I recommend Karen Pryor’s book “Click to Win” about clicker training show dogs.
8. Target Stick: Having the pup touch a target stick with his nose is very easy. It is an excellent foundation for a whole list of behaviors that can be taught with it. It is a fun game for the pup and isn’t stressful at all – but very valuable. An application of teaching with the target stick is having the pup focus on the hand or even a finger. A non-verbal cue I use with my conformation dog is to have him focus on one finger – no matter where I’m standing – when he free-stacks. The target stick can also be used to help the pup look straight ahead when moving for conformation showing – this will eliminate faulty moving caused by the dog looking sideways to the handler.
As Star develops and shows me that he is ready for another new “game”, then I’ll add another skill from the above list. The early behaviors that Star learned are still worked with; there is just more variety now in the short lessons that we have twice a day.
During one of these lessons, I’ll really vary the “games”. For instance, I’ll ask for a “show dog”, then a down, then a sit, then some paw work……. There aren’t any major repetitions of any of the exercises. If Star does a lovely down quickly – then that’ll be it for that session.
Seventeen to Twenty-four Weeks
Star has been going to puppy class and I've been adding more behaviors during our class times to keep him interested. I’ve had him walking beside me, then I’ll back up and he’ll come back to me…. and then sit. The foundation for “front” is now laid! I’ve also had him moving into heel positions by following his nose (luring) and, of course, clicking and treating when he’s successful.
The “back” behavior is getting better and better with more steps going backwards while Star is standing in front of me. I may try a “back” with Star standing beside me in heel position.
With “Paw”, I’m now asking for specific paws with my cues (i.e. my right hand, his left paw). When Star understands, then I’ll ask for High Fives, High Tens, and “Waves” when he is doing the other paw behaviors well.
Star is also starting to understand “Wait” as a pause before an activity such as eating, getting out of his crate etc.
If Star didn't need the teachings of giving and taking of toys or other items earlier, he’ll certainly get these lessons at this age. Again, this is an individual thing – some pups need to be taught this at eight weeks – others can wait.
The foundations of the basic behaviors and of general learning and education are now laid. At this point, I expect my pups to be ladies and gentlemen in their behavior in home and in public. Yes, they are still puppies, but well-mannered and educated puppies.
Six Months to Eighteen Months
My formal teaching sessions with Star will be less frequent. However, it must be understood that educating is truly 24/7. When his lessons occur, they will be kept short (as they are for all my dogs), varied, and fun. At this point in his development, I’ll add these activities and/or behaviors.
1. Solid Stays: The start of teaching this will begin. I don’t believe that pups should be pushed beyond their capabilities. If they can’t do more than a 10 second stay – then accept that and add to the length of time gradually. In this category, having the pup stay still – first in a sit and then in a stand position – will begun. Refer to my article on “Solid Stays” to see how I teach both the stays with and without a person approaching.
2. Position play: This is the foundation of heeling work. I work on fronts, swing finishes, around finishes before taking a single step forward in heel position, I really want the pup to understand what “heel”, “front”, and “around” mean. Refer to my articles: “Beginning in Rally-O” or “Foundations for Novice Rally-O” for more information on how I teach this.
3. Start of directions: Directions can be incorporated when going for a walk – as an example: when the trail turns to the right, give the command for turning to the right before turning and reinforce that. This can also be taught inside with the dog turning into a room. If you have access to an agility cross-over, it is very useful in teaching directions as the pups can be lured to the right or left as desired. Again, clickers help to mark the turns very cleanly. The cue “easy” can also be introduced during walks to slow the pup down.
4. Tunnels: If you have access to a tunnel, this can certainly be taught as a fun game. If no access to one, you can always improvise with what you have in your household.
5. Weave poles: I've had more success in teaching my Malamutes how to weave by clicking and treating them around each pole. I teach with two poles at a time and then add a pole as the dog progresses.
6. Go to Mark and Come to Mark: These can be taught as games which the pups do enjoy as there are lots of goodies involved! Refer to my articles on “Go Mark” and “Come Mark.” These are excellent foundations for the “go out” in Utility and “drop on recall” at the CDX level.
Eighteen to Twenty-Four Months:
At this age, the young Malamute is generally ready for more intensive lessons. Again, keep the principles listed at the beginning of this program in mind. They can often handle up to 30 minutes of training but only if it is filled with a lot of variety, is fast paced in changes of activities, and is positive and fun. They are getting more mature physically and can start more physical activities now without as much fear of straining young bones and muscles. Activities that can be worked on are as follows.
1. Heeling: Don’t rush this as I talk about in the Rally-O articles. Teaching a Malamute what heeling truly means may take a bit more time, but they will understand it and enjoy the fun with you instead of lagging and wishing they were on a different planet.
2. Stays: The young Malamute has more emotional control now and can really start to do stay exercises without being stressed. These are slow to mature dogs; it’s not worth pushing them and stressing them mentally when, by waiting a few more months, the Mal will be mentally and emotionally mature enough to handle the self-discipline that is required in the stay work.
3. Jumping: The young Malamute can start to do low repetitive jumping at 2 years of age. Remember, these are heavy dogs and a lot of repetitive jumping is hard on their shoulders when they land. Keep the jumps low when training – it’s the teaching of going over the jump that is the important thing, not the height. I particularly like the use of a jump chute as taught by Suzanne Clothier in her book “Agility Training Workbook.”
4. Harness work: The young Malamute is certainly ready for harness work now. If he’s able to join a team, then he can learn by example from more experienced dogs. The youngster will still have flashes of “puppy-brain” when in harness – eventually it will go as he matures!
Many of the suggestions of how to teach different behaviors are posted in the writing section of my website (www.inharmonymalamutes.com) Most of these articles have also been published in the Malamute Review in the past.
I do hope that this guideline may be helpful for Malamute owners. We all love our Mals –that’s easy to do. If we educate our pups with a program built on solid foundations of learning, our companions can truly become accomplished stars in many different activities. A well-behaved and educated Alaskan Malamute is a joy to have and enjoy many activities with and be a magnificent ambassador for our breed. May we all have happy educated and accomplished dogs!
From the March/April 2009 Malamute Review
The schedule that I’ll suggest for Star is actually what I do with all my pups now. Some are able to progress very quickly. Others may take a little longer at different steps. Again, I can’t stress enough that every dog is an individual. Even in a litter, there are definitive differences between siblings. What I’m suggesting is just that – suggestions. I have gone through my notes and recollections of how my dogs have progressed in their puppy education and this schedule is quite representative.
Eight to Twelve Weeks
Pups are usually joining their new packs at this time. While the temptation may be to “let the pup be a pup,” that actually is a mistake as it is far better to start the pup’s education as soon as he joins his new family. Before he joins the family, clear house rules must be thought through and agreed upon by all family members. These house rules will be what you want the adult dog to behave like…….so, teach the pup those particular rules from the beginning. For instance, if you do not want the dog to jump up on people, then don’t allow the baby puppy to do so. It’s not worth risking confusion and having to do remedial education by allowing the pup to do one behavior and then “suddenly” changing the rules on him. Any pup that joins my pack is under strict control and supervision. This actually aids in house training and gently and positively teaches the rules of acceptable behavior in my home. Pups must earn the privilege to have more freedom of movement etc. As they mature and show me their understanding of my expectations, they earn privileges.
During this time, the pup will be learning his name, walking on a leash, crate training, home routines, and house training. That in itself is a big lot of learning for the baby puppy. But, fortunately, the pup’s brain and central nervous system is fully developed and he can handle all of this – and more. The following are things that the pup will learn at this age.
1. Learning his name: I use the pup’s name a lot – especially when he’s getting special cuddles. Pairing it with food doesn’t hurt either! His name should be a wonderful thing – so use it with gentle and loving tones in your voice.
2. Learning negative sounds: I teach my clients and puppy class students to save the “no’s” and “bad” words for when it is really needed. That keeps the words more powerful. For corrections and/or minor infractions, I use negative sounds such as “Ah” or “Ow”. Doesn’t matter what the heritage of the pup is, they all understand those sounds.
3. Learning positive sounds: Conversely, the pup should also learn positive sounds. Again, don’t overuse the “good dog” words; “yes” can be substituted at times. Do have special words for when the pup is especially good (e.g. “Excellent!”) If a pup takes longer to respond to a command – and finally does it; don’t use “good dog” – use “thank-you” instead. If the pup had responded quickly – then it merits a “good dog”. By using “thank-you” it acknowledges positively that the pup did what was asked.
4. Walking on a leash: Put the leash on and use it. I do not like to have the pup drag a leash around as I can’t see the point of it. I want my pups to learn that when the leash is on, they are connected to me physically and hopefully mentally. Pups at this age won’t fight the leash much at all – but postpone your leash training, and you’ll have a big fight on your hands. If you are using the leash as part of the house-training routine (having the pup eliminate on a leash outside, tethering the pup to a solid object or yourself), this will just be part of the pup’s life.
5. Crate training: I feed my dogs in crates and the young ones sleep in their crates (in my bedroom). This is just part of the routine. I go into this in more depth in the article “Dog Crates and New Owners.”
6. Vocabulary: In addition to the pup’s name, positive and negative sounds, our hypothetical pup, Star, will also be learning inside/outside, dinner, cookies, cues for eliminations, and other words that I may use routinely. In the beginning, a pup will learn what we are trying to communicate by watching our non-verbal communication. If clear and consistent verbal cues are paired with activities (e.g. saying ‘outside’ before taking the pup outside to eliminate), then the pup will start to associate the funny sounds we make with activities. Just as a young child learns the words by hearing them over and over, the pup also learns this way.
7. Tummy-Side Up: This is an extremely important lesson for Star to learn. There will be many times throughout Star’s life when he will be held and/or restrained. He must learn to accept all parts of his body being held and handled by humans – even strangers such as veterinarians. He learns that being held and restrained is not to be feared – in fact, it can be quite pleasant! While being held, he is massaged all over (when he relaxes). Star also learns that his person is safe and trustworthy – a start on his person becoming a leader in his eyes. (Star’s owner must become a “Benevolent Leader.”)
8. Loading the clicker: As I train my dogs with clickers, I “load” the clicker early. If Star is a pup that I’ve bred, he’ll have heard the clicker sounding right before his dinner magically appears for the first couple of weeks. Then when our more “formal” lessons start, he already knows that the funny sound = treats. If Star is a pup that I've purchased, then by clicking the clicker (ideally when he’s looking at me) and then giving a treat immediately, Star will quickly get the idea that the funny sound = a treat.
9. Puppy Push Ups: This is a term that Ian Dunbar DVM uses to describe the exercises of sit/down/stand that he teaches with lure training. I also teach and use the luring method when doing this as it works so well for any pup. When Star’s head is up, his butt will hit the ground (a sit). From a sit, when the treat is moved along the ground, he’ll want to follow it and will slide into a down. Again, from a sit, if the treat is moved directly away from his nose parallel to the ground, he’ll stand. I use the clicker to mark his changing positions (in the beginning) and when he is following the lure well, the clicker will mark the end of the behavior – or completion of the sit, down, or stand. In the beginning, pups are following the lure (and his nose). There is no point in getting stressed about using the verbal cues until he follows the non-verbal cues easily. A big mistake I see novice handlers make is using the verbal cues too soon – and then they end up sounding like a machine gun (e.g. sit sit sit sit sit) trying to get their pup to follow the verbal cue when the pup has no idea what the heck they are meaning. Not only is this a waste of breath, it degrades the verbal cue right from the beginning. New handlers also have a lot of problem in giving a cue (non-verbal or verbal) and then waiting for the pup to process what the heck the cue means before doing it. I’ll add the cue words in after he is following his nose easily into the three different positions. I will give the verbal cue along with the non-verbal cue and then fade out the non-verbal cues as the pup shows me that he understands it. The clicker marks the behavior and reinforces to the pup that he made the right choice in his behavior.
10. Come when called: At this young age, Star is called and lured to people in a gentle manner. Having a lead on will certainly help bring him in closer. If I’ve bred Star, he’ll have learned “puppy puppy puppy” means come to me as well. If the pup is in a big yard and I don’t think he’ll come when I call; he’ll either not be called directly or kept on a long light rope so that I can reinforce the come. Teaching a pup to not come when called is too easy. I admit, that I've have done this with one of my girls. This party girl has given me many more grey hairs when, after escaping from the yard, she has run across and along our very busy road as logging trucks speed by. Even at eight years of age, if I’m not sure that Zhouma will come to me in the yard or I need her to go directly to her kennel run, she is on a lead.
11. Leave It: This is another life-saving command that must be taught. An 8 week old puppy can certainly learn this easily – particularly with the clicker. Refer to the article “Leave It” for how I teach it.
This is certainly quite a list for a baby pup to learn. But do keep in mind that the vast majority of the list will be happening during the entire day. A couple of “formal” sessions of doing puppy push-ups, come when called, and a leave it or two during a day will be enough for the baby. But keep in mind; these teaching sessions are only about 10 minutes in duration – if that. Tummy-side ups can happen at any time during the day – such as watching TV with the pup. They should be done a minimum of twice a day – more is certainly better.
Thirteen to Sixteen weeks
This is another very important time as socialization outside of the home area must really be intensified. You cannot over-socialize a pup. After the second vaccination, the pup should get to some well run puppy classes. Seeing other pups of varying sizes and shapes and different people is fabulous experience for the pup. If the classes are run by trainers who don’t understand northern dogs, I encourage my clients to take the article “Malamutes are not Goldens” with them to give to the teacher. Some puppy classes may focus on doing simple exercises over and over and over. That will bore the Mal pup – especially if he already knows them! We must be our dog’s advocate – and if we don’t think that doing something the instructor is asking the class to do is right for our dog, then don’t do it. For instance, when I take my pup to the classes, he is already far ahead of the other participants in their knowledge of behaviors. So, I’ll mix up the behaviors by throwing in some tricks that the pup knows or possibly having the pup move around me using the lure method.
So what can Star add to his knowledge at this age?
1. Focus/ Watch Me: If you don’t have the dog’s attention, he won’t listen or learn from you. I point to my eye and when the pup gives me any eye contact, I click and treat. The length of time that the pup will focus is slowly increased. If I have an enthusiastic “dinner-diving” pup, then he is taught to wait for the dinner bowl to be placed on the ground and then must give me direct eye contact before he gets his release cue – and his dinner.
2. Circles /Spins: These tricks are easily taught by the pup following his nose. This is an excellent warm up exercise that helps to limber the dog’s back and muscles. For more information on this, refer to my article “Circles.”
3. Paw: Malamutes are very paw-orientated. This is a handy command to have – not only for the trick value – but in more practical things such as grooming, harnessing, saying “no paw” when the dog is pawing inappropriately, and teaching “paws up” when getting the pup on the grooming table. Refer to my article “Paw” on how I teach this and what can be taught from this foundation.
4. Back: This is so useful in many different activities; look at the list of behaviors and see how many times it shows up! Pups learn this easily. Dogs are not generally aware of their back ends. The rear just provides their motor. Teaching a pup to be aware of his rear in this exercise is particularly useful in conformation showing (getting the “rear set up”) and in Rally-O with the many turns in either direction. Again, refer to my article “Back” for more information on how I teach this.
5. Bow: This is a delightful trick – but one that is also an excellent warm up/stretching exercise for dogs. It is much easier to teach this to a small pup than it is to a large dog which is why I teach it early. Pups understand what is wanted very quickly when they are young. How I teach “Bow” is also on my website.
6. Bang: Teaching a pup to lie on his side is very useful during grooming or other times when he must lie still. It’s also wonderful for cuddle times. Bang is the foundation for teaching the pup to roll over on command. Refer to my article “Bang” for how I teach this.
7. “Show Dog”: As Star will be shown and free-stacked when shown; I introduce the cue “show dog” so that he learns to stand directly in front of me in the manner that I want. By using the verbal cue “show dog,” it enables me to throw some conformation work in the middle of obedience or trick training without my pup becoming confused. When I’m at home, I do the majority of my dog training without using leads. While “show dog” is started in a formal lesson, I continue it as a daily basis when Star gets his cookies after meals, at bedtime, and other times treats are given out to the pack. With clicker training, the exact stance etc. is shaped. I recommend Karen Pryor’s book “Click to Win” about clicker training show dogs.
8. Target Stick: Having the pup touch a target stick with his nose is very easy. It is an excellent foundation for a whole list of behaviors that can be taught with it. It is a fun game for the pup and isn’t stressful at all – but very valuable. An application of teaching with the target stick is having the pup focus on the hand or even a finger. A non-verbal cue I use with my conformation dog is to have him focus on one finger – no matter where I’m standing – when he free-stacks. The target stick can also be used to help the pup look straight ahead when moving for conformation showing – this will eliminate faulty moving caused by the dog looking sideways to the handler.
As Star develops and shows me that he is ready for another new “game”, then I’ll add another skill from the above list. The early behaviors that Star learned are still worked with; there is just more variety now in the short lessons that we have twice a day.
During one of these lessons, I’ll really vary the “games”. For instance, I’ll ask for a “show dog”, then a down, then a sit, then some paw work……. There aren’t any major repetitions of any of the exercises. If Star does a lovely down quickly – then that’ll be it for that session.
Seventeen to Twenty-four Weeks
Star has been going to puppy class and I've been adding more behaviors during our class times to keep him interested. I’ve had him walking beside me, then I’ll back up and he’ll come back to me…. and then sit. The foundation for “front” is now laid! I’ve also had him moving into heel positions by following his nose (luring) and, of course, clicking and treating when he’s successful.
The “back” behavior is getting better and better with more steps going backwards while Star is standing in front of me. I may try a “back” with Star standing beside me in heel position.
With “Paw”, I’m now asking for specific paws with my cues (i.e. my right hand, his left paw). When Star understands, then I’ll ask for High Fives, High Tens, and “Waves” when he is doing the other paw behaviors well.
Star is also starting to understand “Wait” as a pause before an activity such as eating, getting out of his crate etc.
If Star didn't need the teachings of giving and taking of toys or other items earlier, he’ll certainly get these lessons at this age. Again, this is an individual thing – some pups need to be taught this at eight weeks – others can wait.
The foundations of the basic behaviors and of general learning and education are now laid. At this point, I expect my pups to be ladies and gentlemen in their behavior in home and in public. Yes, they are still puppies, but well-mannered and educated puppies.
Six Months to Eighteen Months
My formal teaching sessions with Star will be less frequent. However, it must be understood that educating is truly 24/7. When his lessons occur, they will be kept short (as they are for all my dogs), varied, and fun. At this point in his development, I’ll add these activities and/or behaviors.
1. Solid Stays: The start of teaching this will begin. I don’t believe that pups should be pushed beyond their capabilities. If they can’t do more than a 10 second stay – then accept that and add to the length of time gradually. In this category, having the pup stay still – first in a sit and then in a stand position – will begun. Refer to my article on “Solid Stays” to see how I teach both the stays with and without a person approaching.
2. Position play: This is the foundation of heeling work. I work on fronts, swing finishes, around finishes before taking a single step forward in heel position, I really want the pup to understand what “heel”, “front”, and “around” mean. Refer to my articles: “Beginning in Rally-O” or “Foundations for Novice Rally-O” for more information on how I teach this.
3. Start of directions: Directions can be incorporated when going for a walk – as an example: when the trail turns to the right, give the command for turning to the right before turning and reinforce that. This can also be taught inside with the dog turning into a room. If you have access to an agility cross-over, it is very useful in teaching directions as the pups can be lured to the right or left as desired. Again, clickers help to mark the turns very cleanly. The cue “easy” can also be introduced during walks to slow the pup down.
4. Tunnels: If you have access to a tunnel, this can certainly be taught as a fun game. If no access to one, you can always improvise with what you have in your household.
5. Weave poles: I've had more success in teaching my Malamutes how to weave by clicking and treating them around each pole. I teach with two poles at a time and then add a pole as the dog progresses.
6. Go to Mark and Come to Mark: These can be taught as games which the pups do enjoy as there are lots of goodies involved! Refer to my articles on “Go Mark” and “Come Mark.” These are excellent foundations for the “go out” in Utility and “drop on recall” at the CDX level.
Eighteen to Twenty-Four Months:
At this age, the young Malamute is generally ready for more intensive lessons. Again, keep the principles listed at the beginning of this program in mind. They can often handle up to 30 minutes of training but only if it is filled with a lot of variety, is fast paced in changes of activities, and is positive and fun. They are getting more mature physically and can start more physical activities now without as much fear of straining young bones and muscles. Activities that can be worked on are as follows.
1. Heeling: Don’t rush this as I talk about in the Rally-O articles. Teaching a Malamute what heeling truly means may take a bit more time, but they will understand it and enjoy the fun with you instead of lagging and wishing they were on a different planet.
2. Stays: The young Malamute has more emotional control now and can really start to do stay exercises without being stressed. These are slow to mature dogs; it’s not worth pushing them and stressing them mentally when, by waiting a few more months, the Mal will be mentally and emotionally mature enough to handle the self-discipline that is required in the stay work.
3. Jumping: The young Malamute can start to do low repetitive jumping at 2 years of age. Remember, these are heavy dogs and a lot of repetitive jumping is hard on their shoulders when they land. Keep the jumps low when training – it’s the teaching of going over the jump that is the important thing, not the height. I particularly like the use of a jump chute as taught by Suzanne Clothier in her book “Agility Training Workbook.”
4. Harness work: The young Malamute is certainly ready for harness work now. If he’s able to join a team, then he can learn by example from more experienced dogs. The youngster will still have flashes of “puppy-brain” when in harness – eventually it will go as he matures!
Many of the suggestions of how to teach different behaviors are posted in the writing section of my website (www.inharmonymalamutes.com) Most of these articles have also been published in the Malamute Review in the past.
I do hope that this guideline may be helpful for Malamute owners. We all love our Mals –that’s easy to do. If we educate our pups with a program built on solid foundations of learning, our companions can truly become accomplished stars in many different activities. A well-behaved and educated Alaskan Malamute is a joy to have and enjoy many activities with and be a magnificent ambassador for our breed. May we all have happy educated and accomplished dogs!