Training for Rally Obedience
Contributor: Ruth Kellog, AMCC Member
So, how does one prepare for Rally-O? First and foremost, acquaint oneself with the rules. These can be easily downloaded on the CKC website. In looking through the thirty-one different exercises or movements at the Novice level that a judge can choose from when designing a course, it is very clear that Rally is all about heeling. Yes, there are dogs and handler teams who do not have superb heeling skills that can qualify. Compare their performances with a dog handler team who have excellent skills and the difference is very obvious. Another crucial skill other than heeling that the dog/handler team must know is “come to front.” The cue “front” means the dog is sitting directing in front of the handler in a toes to toes position. Many moves in Rally start with the direction of: “call front…” With a call front maneuver, the team is walking in a heel position; the handler cues the dog to come front (e.g. “Buddy, front”) as she simultaneously backs up. At the cue, the dog turns back to the handler and moves to be directly in front when the handler halts – and then the dog sits. At the Novice level, the handler can move backward a few steps until the dog is in position. |
The other crucial skill that the dog must know for Rally is how to return to heel using either the swing finish or the around the handler finish. In the swing finish the dog moves from the front position to the handler’s left side and swings around into heel position. In the around the handler finish, the dog moves past the handler’s right, behind the handler, and then comes to heel position at the handler’s left side and sits.
Let’s get down to basics now. What is “heeling”? This term refers to the position of the dog at the handler’s left side. When the handler is moving – in any direction – the dog maintains the position with his shoulder at the handler’s left leg. When the handler halts, the dog sits automatically in the correct heel position at the handler’s left leg. When the handler moves forward, backward, or to the side (usually to the right), the dog’s spine should be straight. When the handler turns, then the dog’s spine should be curved around the handler’s left leg appropriately to the turn being made.
Turns in Rally-O are considerably more challenging than required in competitive obedience. At all levels in competitive obedience, there are right and left turns (both 90 degree turns) and one about turn (180 degree turn to the handler’s right). Both competitions have figure eight movements – but in Rally-O, the figure eights are either a double eight or serpentine around four cones once or twice and an exercise called a spiral which is a series of turns around three cones with the dog “inside” or “outside” the cones. (This translates to the dog being closer to the cones or the handler being closer to the cones.) In the second level of Rally-O, there is a figure eight (off lead) around cones but there is the added distraction of two other cones with distractions of food or a toy on them.
Basic Rally-O turns are pivots (sharp 90 degree turns) and 90 degree turns, 180 degree turns, 270 degree turns, and 360 degree turns. All of these turns are done in both directions. The turns to the right are easier for the dogs as they just follow the handler’s movements. However, the turns to the left – especially for large dogs like Malamutes – are more challenging as the dog must back up in heel position around the handler to properly execute these turns.
So, how does a handler get to the level of heeling in which the dog happily stays in position no matter what direction or pace the handler goes? Simply by working towards this goal one step at a time. This may sound simplistic, but to be truly successful, a thinking trainer helps her dog understand what is required.
Before I even start to teach the heel position to my dog, I ensure that the dog has learned the very basic foundations of sit, down, and stand. In teaching these three basic behaviors, I use the lure method of holding a treat in my hand which the pup learns to follow and then does the behavior cued for. To illustrate, as the hand with the lure moves above the pup’s head, he’ll look up, his butt will go down – and he sits! From the sit position, when the hand is moved parallel to the ground at the level of the pup’s nose, he’ll move towards it and stands. Again from the sit position, when the hand with the lure goes to the floor, the pup will lower his head, the rest of the body follows, and he lies down. After the pup has learned to follow his nose for these three basic positions, then I’ll add “circles and spins” (similar to the pup chasing his tail in either direction) to his repertoire. These five very basic behaviors are then mixed up in order to help the pup understand the various verbal and physical cues. To ease the clarification of communication, my own pups are all started with clicker training; the clicks the pup hears mark the behavior desired that is offered by the pup as being correct. Handlers can use the word “yes” or something similar, but the click is much more precise and clean.
The other foundational skill I teach is the cue for the pup to pay attention to the handler. Without the pup learning to focus on cue to the handler, he will not be able to focus well on any lesson being taught. Any verbal cue can be used: “focus” or “watch me” are the most commonly used. Using the desired cue word, I simultaneously gently tap the pup’s nose with a finger of the hand holding the lure and move that finger up to my eye. The pup will follow the treat hand and give a very short eye contact. The light tap on the pup’s nose is quickly faded out as the pup begins to understand what is desired. The handler can just use the finger pointing to her eye at this point. The handler begins to shape longer and longer eye contacts with the pup before rewarding the behavior. In time, a simple point to one’s eye or the verbal cue will cue the dog to focus on the handler and the job at hand.
Unlike humans, dogs do not normally seek out other dogs’ eyes to gaze into them. (This also applies to gazing fondly into their human’s eyes.) In canine-speak, a direct stare is a challenging message from one dog to another. Teaching the pup that it is safe to look into the human’s eyes and desired is a very useful behavior.
Now I’ll address how to teach a dog to heel. My method of teaching this may seem very slow, but after many years of teaching “heel” using the more conventional methods and then struggling to have good heeling dogs, I have found this method not only works but is faster in the long run. The dogs I have started using only this method not only love heeling work, but are also very good at it! This method can also be started with a very young puppy provided the handler realizes that a young Malamute pup does not have the concentration nor self discipline to do more than a couple of steps at a time. I personally wait until my pups are at least a year of age before starting more “formal” obedience lessons. Before then, they are absorbing all of their puppy lessons – which is quite a bit. (Refer to my article “Early Puppy Education” printed in a previous Malamute Review or access it on my website of www.inharmonymalamutes.com to see how much I do teach my young pups.)
I recently demonstrated the beginnings of my method of teaching this with a 13 week old pup to puppy class participants. As all of the pups there knew how to follow their noses (thanks to lure training that we teach), the novice handlers were all able to get their 4 month old pups to come to front position and move around into the heel positions (by both methods). I emphasized that in the beginning of this, none of the pups knew what they were doing – they were just following their noses. But with repetition (and use of the cue words while the handlers were luring the pups around), the foundation was being laid for future formal work when they are older.
Here is my progression of steps:
1. Call the pup to the front of the handler using the lure. As the pup comes closer, raise the hand to cue the sit (which the pup knows). The pup sits – and does a “front!” The handler will add the “front” command after a couple of repetitions. I suggest waiting to add the cue words until after a couple of repetitions to allow novice handlers to get used to the movement of the lure hand first. Too much information given to a novice handler at one time can be as confusing to them as it is to the pup. An experienced trainer can use the cues right from the start as the movements to elicit the desired pup behavior are comfortable to them.
2. From the front position, with the lure hand move it in a wide circle away and then towards the handler’s left side. The pup follows the lure and circles around to the handler’s side. The handler raises the lure upwards (again the non-verbal sit command) and the pup sits in heel position. As in the front behavior, the pup already knows how to sit with the non-verbal cue, so only give the verbal cue “Heel.” It is the movement of the pup to the heel position that should be reinforced, not the sit command.
N.B. Pups have very short attention spans and will probably move out of whatever position they were just lured to. No problem. This just allows the handler to cue them again to either the same or different position. I do point out to students (with a smile) that an entire 10 to 15 minute training session (which should be the maximum length for a pup) can be done with the handler barely moving at all!
3. Practice moving the pup from front to heel (swing finish) and back again to the front position until the pup catches on. Do note that if the handler needs to move slightly to help the pup, by all means, do so! Most young dogs need this non-verbal help. This can be phased out as the dog matures in both his body/mind and in his level of abilities.
4. Now, introduce the “around” finish. Again, start with the pup in the front position. Lure the pup to the handler’s right side, around behind the handler, and then to the left side. Move the lure upwards for the non-verbal cue of “sit” and then the “around” is completed. If the pup will only start to move a little bit, reward the attempt. It shouldn’t take too long before he is comfortable going around the back of the handler. The handler may need to do a quick turn of her upper body (first to the right and then to the left) to help lure the pup around. After a couple of successful “arounds,” then start using the cue word.
5. Practice moving the pup in different positions. I even will cue “around” when the pup is in heel position. This means the pup must make a full circle around me and return to the original heel position. Do be aware that in the beginning the pup may not sit in the ideal positions for front or heel. Not to worry. Slowly shape what is desired by encouraging the pup to sit closer and/or straighter and rewarding the attempts. Then, when the ideal position is reached, reward enthusiastically (jackpot!). Following that, only reward the ideal position and nothing else. This will encourage the pup to change his position on his own to get to the right position to be rewarded.
6. At this point, the pup has a good understanding of front and going to heel by two methods – the swing and around. Now it’s time to introduce the concept of maintaining the correct position when the handler is moving. With the pup in heel position, alert the pup that something’s coming using their name and then the heel command (e.g. “Buddy, heel”). Then take ONE step forward. If necessary (and it probably will be), lure the pup to your side and move the lure up to non-verbally cue a sit (don’t say it, though). Then praise the pup. By not saying “sit” you are rewarding the pup’s movement of going to your side and sitting as one behavior. It is the moving to the heel cue that is being taught here as the pup already knows how to “sit’ on cue and shouldn’t need reward for that. Before progressing, the pup must move with the handler on the cue “Buddy, Heel.”
7. After the pup has done the one step well, then add TWO steps in a row. Again do not rush this step. Trust me, it is very very tempting to take more than two steps, but don’t. Wait until the pup can execute two steps in proper position before adding to it. Yes, it takes time, but until you can get two steps in perfect position with the dog focused on the handler and work, then do not increase the number of steps. And this principle applies to all added steps!
8. At this point, I usually add a different challenge to the pup as only going forward is very boring. I’ll start adding the turns to the right (first) and then to the left. Because the criterion has changed (i.e. turning instead of going straight), I’ll return to the ONE step level. More steps will be added as the proficiency increases. To teach this movement, I’ll cue the heel (“Buddy, heel”) and then do a pivot to the right. Again, if the pup needs to be lured to position, do so. Praise all attempts. Only when the dog is able to turn to the right easily and precisely, then I’ll start with the turn to the more difficult side, the left. To ease the pup into learning how to move his body to keep in position, I’ll do a smaller degree angle turn – such as a 45 degree angle turn to the left – as opposed to the full 90 degree turn. Do remember, that the pup must learn to back up, curve his spine, and focus to do the more difficult left turns. Remain at this level only doing one step at a time until the pup is showing that he understands.
9. Now, I’ll add the foundation cue of “Back” to the dog’s repertoire. I find it easiest for the pup to learn this behavior standing in front of the handler. As the handler moves directly to the pup, the pup will start to shift his weight and possibly move a foot back. Praise the attempt. Do not rush teaching this behavior. The pup will catch on. Teaching a pup to back while in heel position does take a little longer. (For a more detailed way of how I teach this, go to my website of www.inharmonymalamutes.com)
10. Slowly, the number of steps are increasing at a time when the pup is heeling. Now, it’s time to add the turns. N.B. Before starting to teach this to your pup, first practice and figure out your own footwork! This will aid your pup in figuring out what you are trying to do and will decrease the chance of handler errors in the future. As said before, pivots are turns on the spot. The other turns have more movement to them. The most important turn to master (in both directions) is the 90 degree turn. All of the other turns (180 degree, 270 degree, and 360 degree) are comprised of 90 degree turns chained together. (E.g. a 270 degree turn is made up of three 90 degree turns.) Spend the most time with the 90 degree turns and the others will come much more naturally. It is better to teach the turns by slowly progressing in difficulty. This means, getting the 90 degree turns solid before teaching the 180 degree turns and so on. In Rally-O, body and verbal cues are acceptable so use them to help your dog.
Now the basic foundation for crisp heeling has been laid. If the handler progresses slowly, assesses both her dog’s and her own movements, makes corrections and adjustments as needed, and continues to work in a positive manner, then the dog will enjoy the new games. Heeling is a very complex behavior for young dogs to grasp but with patience and perseverance, the pup will catch on.
During the teaching of “front” and “heel,” the dogs do learn “position play” game. This is an excellent warm-up exercise before starting any heeling work. In my position play warm-up, I’ll have the dog in heel position and by using upper body cues (i.e. shoulders), I’ll cue the dog to move forwards and backwards. Then I’ll do all the turns in both directions. I’ll mix up the movements (including sideways), turns, and throw in a few instant changes in posture (i.e. sit, down, stands). Lots of positive reinforcement and encouragement is given throughout. The result is that my dog is very focused and eager to do anything. He is also stimulated intellectually by the unpredictability of what will be asked next.
Yes, my method of teaching “heel” to my dogs may take longer than other methods. However, my dogs understand what “heel” is. During a Rally-O seminar that my kennel club held, the instructor asked if anyone had a dog who really knew what “heel” meant. I was the only one who indicated that my dog (Dorje) understood this. She then tested us. After a couple of simple maneuvers, she asked me to leave Dorje in a sit/stay. I was instructed to move away in a straight line and then turn 45 degrees to my left. At her instruction, I cued “Dorje, heel.” And he quickly did with a perfectly straight sit in heel position. He was the only Malamute (a supposedly difficult breed to train for obedience) at the seminar. And Dorje was the only dog there who truly understood this basic obedience cue.
Teaching a dog the heeling maneuvers for Rally-O has two excellent benefits for competitive obedience enthusiasts. The first is the dog’s enthusiasm for heeling work either returns or is enhanced due to the increased variety of work. The second benefit is the crisper heeling overall. In Rally work, the dog must learn to be aware of and how to move his hindquarters. Most dogs don’t think of their rear end – it’s just the motor! The turns to the left and backing in heel position (particularly in a circle around the handler as she does a 270 or 360 turn in place) really helps. When a dog who is aware of crisp turns in Rally goes into the competitive obedience ring, his turns are still crisp. For example, for a simple 90 degree turn to the left, the dog will often side-step with his hind quarters which results in a true angled turn as opposed to the usual sloppier arc many dogs do. Watch a consistently high scoring competitive obedience dog and chances are they, too, will also do these crisp turns.
Interested in Rally-O? It is a varied and challenging activity if the handler chooses to work towards crisp performances. Yes, sloppy work will get qualifying scores but, in my view, seeing a dog and handler team run through a Rally course smoothly, effortlessly, and crisply is like watching a well matched ballroom couple dance. Rally-O is well suited for Alaskan Malamutes. This breed loves the variety, new “games to play” and the communication between the handler and dog while executing a Rally course.
While Rally is “all about heeling” it does not have to become pedantic, boring, and stressful. I’ve used the above method of teaching “heel” to my five boys. Bring out a leash, clicker, and/or treats and any one of them is eager to play my heeling games. They’ve all been exposed to Rally-O exercises and patterns. Do they enjoy it? Their big happy smiles certainly gives me their answers very loudly.
Let’s get down to basics now. What is “heeling”? This term refers to the position of the dog at the handler’s left side. When the handler is moving – in any direction – the dog maintains the position with his shoulder at the handler’s left leg. When the handler halts, the dog sits automatically in the correct heel position at the handler’s left leg. When the handler moves forward, backward, or to the side (usually to the right), the dog’s spine should be straight. When the handler turns, then the dog’s spine should be curved around the handler’s left leg appropriately to the turn being made.
Turns in Rally-O are considerably more challenging than required in competitive obedience. At all levels in competitive obedience, there are right and left turns (both 90 degree turns) and one about turn (180 degree turn to the handler’s right). Both competitions have figure eight movements – but in Rally-O, the figure eights are either a double eight or serpentine around four cones once or twice and an exercise called a spiral which is a series of turns around three cones with the dog “inside” or “outside” the cones. (This translates to the dog being closer to the cones or the handler being closer to the cones.) In the second level of Rally-O, there is a figure eight (off lead) around cones but there is the added distraction of two other cones with distractions of food or a toy on them.
Basic Rally-O turns are pivots (sharp 90 degree turns) and 90 degree turns, 180 degree turns, 270 degree turns, and 360 degree turns. All of these turns are done in both directions. The turns to the right are easier for the dogs as they just follow the handler’s movements. However, the turns to the left – especially for large dogs like Malamutes – are more challenging as the dog must back up in heel position around the handler to properly execute these turns.
So, how does a handler get to the level of heeling in which the dog happily stays in position no matter what direction or pace the handler goes? Simply by working towards this goal one step at a time. This may sound simplistic, but to be truly successful, a thinking trainer helps her dog understand what is required.
Before I even start to teach the heel position to my dog, I ensure that the dog has learned the very basic foundations of sit, down, and stand. In teaching these three basic behaviors, I use the lure method of holding a treat in my hand which the pup learns to follow and then does the behavior cued for. To illustrate, as the hand with the lure moves above the pup’s head, he’ll look up, his butt will go down – and he sits! From the sit position, when the hand is moved parallel to the ground at the level of the pup’s nose, he’ll move towards it and stands. Again from the sit position, when the hand with the lure goes to the floor, the pup will lower his head, the rest of the body follows, and he lies down. After the pup has learned to follow his nose for these three basic positions, then I’ll add “circles and spins” (similar to the pup chasing his tail in either direction) to his repertoire. These five very basic behaviors are then mixed up in order to help the pup understand the various verbal and physical cues. To ease the clarification of communication, my own pups are all started with clicker training; the clicks the pup hears mark the behavior desired that is offered by the pup as being correct. Handlers can use the word “yes” or something similar, but the click is much more precise and clean.
The other foundational skill I teach is the cue for the pup to pay attention to the handler. Without the pup learning to focus on cue to the handler, he will not be able to focus well on any lesson being taught. Any verbal cue can be used: “focus” or “watch me” are the most commonly used. Using the desired cue word, I simultaneously gently tap the pup’s nose with a finger of the hand holding the lure and move that finger up to my eye. The pup will follow the treat hand and give a very short eye contact. The light tap on the pup’s nose is quickly faded out as the pup begins to understand what is desired. The handler can just use the finger pointing to her eye at this point. The handler begins to shape longer and longer eye contacts with the pup before rewarding the behavior. In time, a simple point to one’s eye or the verbal cue will cue the dog to focus on the handler and the job at hand.
Unlike humans, dogs do not normally seek out other dogs’ eyes to gaze into them. (This also applies to gazing fondly into their human’s eyes.) In canine-speak, a direct stare is a challenging message from one dog to another. Teaching the pup that it is safe to look into the human’s eyes and desired is a very useful behavior.
Now I’ll address how to teach a dog to heel. My method of teaching this may seem very slow, but after many years of teaching “heel” using the more conventional methods and then struggling to have good heeling dogs, I have found this method not only works but is faster in the long run. The dogs I have started using only this method not only love heeling work, but are also very good at it! This method can also be started with a very young puppy provided the handler realizes that a young Malamute pup does not have the concentration nor self discipline to do more than a couple of steps at a time. I personally wait until my pups are at least a year of age before starting more “formal” obedience lessons. Before then, they are absorbing all of their puppy lessons – which is quite a bit. (Refer to my article “Early Puppy Education” printed in a previous Malamute Review or access it on my website of www.inharmonymalamutes.com to see how much I do teach my young pups.)
I recently demonstrated the beginnings of my method of teaching this with a 13 week old pup to puppy class participants. As all of the pups there knew how to follow their noses (thanks to lure training that we teach), the novice handlers were all able to get their 4 month old pups to come to front position and move around into the heel positions (by both methods). I emphasized that in the beginning of this, none of the pups knew what they were doing – they were just following their noses. But with repetition (and use of the cue words while the handlers were luring the pups around), the foundation was being laid for future formal work when they are older.
Here is my progression of steps:
1. Call the pup to the front of the handler using the lure. As the pup comes closer, raise the hand to cue the sit (which the pup knows). The pup sits – and does a “front!” The handler will add the “front” command after a couple of repetitions. I suggest waiting to add the cue words until after a couple of repetitions to allow novice handlers to get used to the movement of the lure hand first. Too much information given to a novice handler at one time can be as confusing to them as it is to the pup. An experienced trainer can use the cues right from the start as the movements to elicit the desired pup behavior are comfortable to them.
2. From the front position, with the lure hand move it in a wide circle away and then towards the handler’s left side. The pup follows the lure and circles around to the handler’s side. The handler raises the lure upwards (again the non-verbal sit command) and the pup sits in heel position. As in the front behavior, the pup already knows how to sit with the non-verbal cue, so only give the verbal cue “Heel.” It is the movement of the pup to the heel position that should be reinforced, not the sit command.
N.B. Pups have very short attention spans and will probably move out of whatever position they were just lured to. No problem. This just allows the handler to cue them again to either the same or different position. I do point out to students (with a smile) that an entire 10 to 15 minute training session (which should be the maximum length for a pup) can be done with the handler barely moving at all!
3. Practice moving the pup from front to heel (swing finish) and back again to the front position until the pup catches on. Do note that if the handler needs to move slightly to help the pup, by all means, do so! Most young dogs need this non-verbal help. This can be phased out as the dog matures in both his body/mind and in his level of abilities.
4. Now, introduce the “around” finish. Again, start with the pup in the front position. Lure the pup to the handler’s right side, around behind the handler, and then to the left side. Move the lure upwards for the non-verbal cue of “sit” and then the “around” is completed. If the pup will only start to move a little bit, reward the attempt. It shouldn’t take too long before he is comfortable going around the back of the handler. The handler may need to do a quick turn of her upper body (first to the right and then to the left) to help lure the pup around. After a couple of successful “arounds,” then start using the cue word.
5. Practice moving the pup in different positions. I even will cue “around” when the pup is in heel position. This means the pup must make a full circle around me and return to the original heel position. Do be aware that in the beginning the pup may not sit in the ideal positions for front or heel. Not to worry. Slowly shape what is desired by encouraging the pup to sit closer and/or straighter and rewarding the attempts. Then, when the ideal position is reached, reward enthusiastically (jackpot!). Following that, only reward the ideal position and nothing else. This will encourage the pup to change his position on his own to get to the right position to be rewarded.
6. At this point, the pup has a good understanding of front and going to heel by two methods – the swing and around. Now it’s time to introduce the concept of maintaining the correct position when the handler is moving. With the pup in heel position, alert the pup that something’s coming using their name and then the heel command (e.g. “Buddy, heel”). Then take ONE step forward. If necessary (and it probably will be), lure the pup to your side and move the lure up to non-verbally cue a sit (don’t say it, though). Then praise the pup. By not saying “sit” you are rewarding the pup’s movement of going to your side and sitting as one behavior. It is the moving to the heel cue that is being taught here as the pup already knows how to “sit’ on cue and shouldn’t need reward for that. Before progressing, the pup must move with the handler on the cue “Buddy, Heel.”
7. After the pup has done the one step well, then add TWO steps in a row. Again do not rush this step. Trust me, it is very very tempting to take more than two steps, but don’t. Wait until the pup can execute two steps in proper position before adding to it. Yes, it takes time, but until you can get two steps in perfect position with the dog focused on the handler and work, then do not increase the number of steps. And this principle applies to all added steps!
8. At this point, I usually add a different challenge to the pup as only going forward is very boring. I’ll start adding the turns to the right (first) and then to the left. Because the criterion has changed (i.e. turning instead of going straight), I’ll return to the ONE step level. More steps will be added as the proficiency increases. To teach this movement, I’ll cue the heel (“Buddy, heel”) and then do a pivot to the right. Again, if the pup needs to be lured to position, do so. Praise all attempts. Only when the dog is able to turn to the right easily and precisely, then I’ll start with the turn to the more difficult side, the left. To ease the pup into learning how to move his body to keep in position, I’ll do a smaller degree angle turn – such as a 45 degree angle turn to the left – as opposed to the full 90 degree turn. Do remember, that the pup must learn to back up, curve his spine, and focus to do the more difficult left turns. Remain at this level only doing one step at a time until the pup is showing that he understands.
9. Now, I’ll add the foundation cue of “Back” to the dog’s repertoire. I find it easiest for the pup to learn this behavior standing in front of the handler. As the handler moves directly to the pup, the pup will start to shift his weight and possibly move a foot back. Praise the attempt. Do not rush teaching this behavior. The pup will catch on. Teaching a pup to back while in heel position does take a little longer. (For a more detailed way of how I teach this, go to my website of www.inharmonymalamutes.com)
10. Slowly, the number of steps are increasing at a time when the pup is heeling. Now, it’s time to add the turns. N.B. Before starting to teach this to your pup, first practice and figure out your own footwork! This will aid your pup in figuring out what you are trying to do and will decrease the chance of handler errors in the future. As said before, pivots are turns on the spot. The other turns have more movement to them. The most important turn to master (in both directions) is the 90 degree turn. All of the other turns (180 degree, 270 degree, and 360 degree) are comprised of 90 degree turns chained together. (E.g. a 270 degree turn is made up of three 90 degree turns.) Spend the most time with the 90 degree turns and the others will come much more naturally. It is better to teach the turns by slowly progressing in difficulty. This means, getting the 90 degree turns solid before teaching the 180 degree turns and so on. In Rally-O, body and verbal cues are acceptable so use them to help your dog.
Now the basic foundation for crisp heeling has been laid. If the handler progresses slowly, assesses both her dog’s and her own movements, makes corrections and adjustments as needed, and continues to work in a positive manner, then the dog will enjoy the new games. Heeling is a very complex behavior for young dogs to grasp but with patience and perseverance, the pup will catch on.
During the teaching of “front” and “heel,” the dogs do learn “position play” game. This is an excellent warm-up exercise before starting any heeling work. In my position play warm-up, I’ll have the dog in heel position and by using upper body cues (i.e. shoulders), I’ll cue the dog to move forwards and backwards. Then I’ll do all the turns in both directions. I’ll mix up the movements (including sideways), turns, and throw in a few instant changes in posture (i.e. sit, down, stands). Lots of positive reinforcement and encouragement is given throughout. The result is that my dog is very focused and eager to do anything. He is also stimulated intellectually by the unpredictability of what will be asked next.
Yes, my method of teaching “heel” to my dogs may take longer than other methods. However, my dogs understand what “heel” is. During a Rally-O seminar that my kennel club held, the instructor asked if anyone had a dog who really knew what “heel” meant. I was the only one who indicated that my dog (Dorje) understood this. She then tested us. After a couple of simple maneuvers, she asked me to leave Dorje in a sit/stay. I was instructed to move away in a straight line and then turn 45 degrees to my left. At her instruction, I cued “Dorje, heel.” And he quickly did with a perfectly straight sit in heel position. He was the only Malamute (a supposedly difficult breed to train for obedience) at the seminar. And Dorje was the only dog there who truly understood this basic obedience cue.
Teaching a dog the heeling maneuvers for Rally-O has two excellent benefits for competitive obedience enthusiasts. The first is the dog’s enthusiasm for heeling work either returns or is enhanced due to the increased variety of work. The second benefit is the crisper heeling overall. In Rally work, the dog must learn to be aware of and how to move his hindquarters. Most dogs don’t think of their rear end – it’s just the motor! The turns to the left and backing in heel position (particularly in a circle around the handler as she does a 270 or 360 turn in place) really helps. When a dog who is aware of crisp turns in Rally goes into the competitive obedience ring, his turns are still crisp. For example, for a simple 90 degree turn to the left, the dog will often side-step with his hind quarters which results in a true angled turn as opposed to the usual sloppier arc many dogs do. Watch a consistently high scoring competitive obedience dog and chances are they, too, will also do these crisp turns.
Interested in Rally-O? It is a varied and challenging activity if the handler chooses to work towards crisp performances. Yes, sloppy work will get qualifying scores but, in my view, seeing a dog and handler team run through a Rally course smoothly, effortlessly, and crisply is like watching a well matched ballroom couple dance. Rally-O is well suited for Alaskan Malamutes. This breed loves the variety, new “games to play” and the communication between the handler and dog while executing a Rally course.
While Rally is “all about heeling” it does not have to become pedantic, boring, and stressful. I’ve used the above method of teaching “heel” to my five boys. Bring out a leash, clicker, and/or treats and any one of them is eager to play my heeling games. They’ve all been exposed to Rally-O exercises and patterns. Do they enjoy it? Their big happy smiles certainly gives me their answers very loudly.